A Guide to Marseille

Les Chambres de la Relève — an intimate boutique stay in the heart of Endoume.

Tuba Club — an iconic spot by the water. Stay if you can, or at the very least book lunch.

Hôtel Le Corbusier — for architecture lovers, staying in Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse is a pretty special experience.

Le Petit Nice — if you're after something more luxurious with incredible sea views.

If you're staying a little longer, book an Airbnb in Endoume or Le Roucas-Blanc — it feels like living in Marseille rather than simply visiting.

Swim anywhere off the rocks — it's the best way to experience Marseille.

The natural pool near Vallon des Auffes is one of my favourite swimming spots.

Start the day with a walk or run along the Corniche Kennedy.

Spend an afternoon at Les Bains des Dames — take the short coastal hike, book a sunbed for the day, swim, then stay for lunch. The fish of the day, grilled over charcoal, is always delicious.

Cécile Food Club — start here for coffee, then grab breakfast or lunch to take away and enjoy by the water.

Tuba Club — one of Marseille's iconic lunch spots overlooking the Mediterranean. Book ahead and settle in for the afternoon.

Chez Étienne — a Marseille institution, best known for its iconic thin-crust pizza.

La Cantinetta — relaxed Italian in the prettiest courtyard. Some of the best pasta I've had outside of Italy, and don't skip the lemon sorbet.

Figure — natural wine, shared plates and the perfect spot for aperitivo.

Livingston — thoughtful seasonal cooking with a set menu of smaller sharing plates.

Ripaille — intimate neighbourhood dining with a seasonal French menu.

Poisson Kennedy — fresh seafood, crisp white tablecloths and the perfect excuse to get dressed up for dinner.

Double Zero — vinyl, cocktails and wine, best after dinner.

Loulou Monsieur Glace — the perfect gelato at any time of day.

Above all else — you can't beat a classic French picnic. Pick up a fresh baguette, good cheese, jambon and a few cold beers, then find a spot on the rocks for sunset. Sometimes the simplest moments are the best.

La Vieille Charité (Old Charity Centre) — one of Marseille's most beautiful buildings. While you're there, don't miss the current Adrien Vescovi installation.

Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse — an architectural icon. Wander the building, visit the rooftop and stop by the design bookshop and concept stores.

La Traverse — a contemporary gallery overlooking Malmousque with a thoughtfully curated programme of art and design. Stay for brunch or lunch at the café for seasonal dishes, delicious natural wines and one of the loveliest terraces in the city.

Le Panier — Marseille's oldest neighbourhood and the perfect place to wander without a plan.

Jogging — part concept store, part restaurant and café, with one of the city's best edits of fashion, design and homewares.

Maison Batiä & Mélanie Vintage — spend an afternoon exploring these beautifully curated vintage stores and the surrounding neighbourhood.

Maison Empereur — France's oldest hardware store and one of my favourite places for timeless homewares.

Stay for 3–4 days if you can — it's the perfect amount of time to settle into Marseille's slower rhythm.

Walk as much as possible — you'll discover so much more than you would by taxi.

Pack sensible shoes as the best swimming spots are all accessed via the rocks.

Book restaurants in advance during summer, especially for dinner.

Plan a swim or picnic for late afternoon — the Mediterranean light at golden hour is pretty hard to beat.

Don't over-plan. My favourite days in Marseille have always been built around a morning swim, a long lunch and wandering without much of an agenda.